The capital Phnom Penh is shaking off the country's turbulent past and striving for a new vibrant future. New shopping malls are popping up, French colonial buildings being restored and stylish international restaurants line the riverfront. This all collides with grimy back streets, street food stalls and hectic markets, with the grand Royal Palace bedrock through the changing years. Somehow, this mishmash works. You can gain an understanding of the Khmer Rouge's impact with a visit to the infamous and moving killing fields. A relatively recent and disturbing reminder of what humanity is capable of. At night you can step back to the future into city's bar and club scene, although not massive there's enough for a good night out. In short, it's a city with plenty of things to keep you entertained for a couple of days and a good place to gain an understanding of Cambodia's rich history. *TIP* Streets running east-west are evenly numbered, north-south for odd ones. Helps with navigation!